settled at last

Train was better than expected – our compartment mates were friendly but quiet, and we had lights out before 11pm. Wil had the bottom bed, I had the top – which I loved. Slept with my head by the window, listening to Stars on my iPod and looking out the window. It was hot in the compartment as the attendant had turned off the A/C. When we weren’t moving there was no air.

Slept fitfully, but I did sleep. Wil reports that he slept really well. Lucky puck.

Guard came by in the morning and opened the door. Not a lot of hustle and bustle – I brushed my teeth and got my bags back together, and then we pulled into the station. Much less frantic than I expected.

Went through the pretty station (again, no left luggage), and easily grabbed a petit taxi. Then the hard part started. I had wanted to stay at the Jnane Mogador – but had noticed a big hotel called the Riad Mogador near the station. Of course, that’s where the taxi driver took us first. I said no, showed him the map, and then we drove around. And around. He pulled up at a couple of other hotels, asking doormen, other cabbies, etc. I think he hoped we would just say okay, that’s the one. But eventually he found the road and drove along it as far as he could. We got out, shook off a tout, and then headed up the road (confirming with a nice man en route).

A few minutes of walking and we had found it. Unfortunately, the owner didn’t know if he ha any rooms for tonight, but invited us upstairs for coffee/tea while he found out. The riad was gorgeous – lots of beautiful carving in the courtyard, and a lovely terrace where we had tea. There was even a cute (if filthy) tiny gray kitten frolicking. But, sadly, no rooms for tonight or tomorrow.

He did call someone else, whose place we went to look at. It wasn’t nearly as nice, and all looked new trying to look olde. The rooms we were shown were 300 and 400, and the 300 room stank. To top it off, they then told us the 400 room was already booked for the next night. If the Mogador had had a room for tomorrow we might have just gone for it – but they didn’t. So back to square one. Mohammed made another call and we went to look at a third riad, Riad des Princesses, as it turns out. A bit farther off the grid, but beautiful and quiet. We bartered down to 500/night including breakfast, which is less than we paid in scutty Tangier. The manager/owner is called Ahmed, and he has a beautiful tiny orange kitten named Khalim. I showed him the pictures of Bub and Kiki and he softened towards us completely. And he was touched we bothered to ask his name. Very nice man.

So we’re here for 2 nights – a nice chance to do a bit of washing and relax.

Once in the room we had showers, washed our stinky socks that never did dry in Tangier, and then headed out for some food. We’re really close to the big square, so we went there first. Had a great breakfast in a weird little café with no ornament other than a photo of the Spice Girls on the walls.

Now back in the riad having a siesta till the heat dies down.